Intake Manifold & Carburetor Selection

  I've had a lot of experience in this area, so I've a lot to say about it. The selection of your intake manifold is like the cam, pick one suited to your needs.  Sure the bigger one will look killer on your engine, but it'll also foul your sparkplugs quicker and run like crap in the winter months.  Take my advice, if you use the car for daily driving, a dual-plane intake manifold is what you want.  I prefer Holley carbs since they are easier on the wallet and parts are easy to find when adjustments and custom tailoring are required.  Again, the choice is yours, make it and live with it.
  Your next question is what size intake and what size carburetor? I was once told by a parts counter man "that carburetors way too big, your car'll never run right." He was right in the sense that if I used it "as is" right out of the box, it was too big.  But I planned to rejet the carb, and his suggestions, although well meaning, fell on deaf ears.  I said to him "remember the '69 Z28 302 with that huge crossram intake and twin 650 cfm carbs," he didn't give me anymore advice on carburetors.  If performance is your goal, a huge dual-plane intake can be used for street use, but to use a large runner intake you need a small carb.  Almost the same gains can be experienced using a small runner intake.  "What," you say, "how is that possible?" It's simpler than you think, it's all a matter of fluid dynamics.  That doesn't sound simple I know, but here's the explanation.  The air-fuel mixture starts at the carburetor, and velocity is what makes the fuel atomize with the air in the carburetor.  Velocity is the key, atomizing the mixture makes it burn more completely.  Now if that mixture has to take a sudden turn the fuel may separate from the air and puddle causing a lean condition in the engine.  The transition of the fuel from the carburetor is critical here. 
  When using a small carburetor combined with a small intake, the mixture exits the carb at a high velocity and has to make a sudden turn into the intake manifold's runner with a high probability of fuel separation resulting in fuel droplet formation. These droplets do not burn efficiently.  One way to correct this would be to place an open plenum carburetor spacer between the carb and intake.  This would allow the mixture to momentarily slow down to take the turn into the intake runner where it will accelerate into the engine's cylinder.  The only possible problem there can be with this solution is hood clearance, so choose your spacer accordingly.
  When using a large carburetor with a large intake manifold, fuel atomization is all but impossible at low to mid-range RPMs.  Again, this mixture will not burn efficiently.  One way to correct this would be to place a restricted plenum carburetor spacer between the carb and intake.  Make sure the carburetor throttle blades don't contact the spacer or damage to the carburetor will occur.  This would allow the mixture to momentarily speed up allowing the mixture to atomize before entering the intake runner where it will continue towards the engine's cylinder.  The carb will require rejetting so count on doing it for the best performance gains or your money will be wasted.  The only possible problem there can be with this solution is hood clearance, so choose your spacer accordingly.
  When using a small carburetor with a large intake the mixture enters the intake atomized and slows to turn into the intake runner while still remaining somewhat atomized.  Using a large carburetor on a small intake will result in not so good atomization.  Rejetting the carb with smaller jets helps and the small runners of the intake can actually improve the atomization process enabling the engine to run somewhat better than expected.

  Ignition System

Firing Order
1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2

Cylinder Identification: The ODD BANK (1,3,5,7) is on the driver's side, EVEN BANK (2,4,6,8) is on the passenger side.
Factory Ignition
Aftermarket Ignitions

Fuel System

Factory Fuel Pump (in fuel tank)

  You can use the same electric fuel pump so long as you don't plan on RPMs over 4000, rapid acceleration, or a bigger carburetor.  If you do, the carb will run out of gas resulting in the engines demise due to a leaning out condition causing pre-ignition and piston damage.  I know this because I made that mistake 10 years ago and had to install a new piston.
Aftermarket Fuel Pumps
  If you do plan on higher RPMs, or a bigger carburetor, I would suggest an aftermarket elec. pump like a Holley with a pressure regulator.  When using an aftermarket fuel pump, the factory pump must be removed from the fuel tank or it will restrict the fuel flow and defeat the purpose of the new one.  Once removed, you'll need to extend the length of the pickup in the tank since removal of the pump shortened it.  Don't forget to reinstall the filter sock on the end to prevent unwanted trash from entering the fuel line.  I even added a Carter Z/28 mechanical pump for added measure.  Adding the mechanical pump required notching the front of the right K-brace (the V8 car brace going from under the front of the oil pan to the front right sway bar bushing mount location).

Emissions System

Catalytic Converters
  Catalytic converters used to be heavy, performance robbing, ugly boat anchors.  Performance versions exist that do the job, weigh less, and increase performance over the factory pieces.  The only downside to this is they still cost an arm and a leg.
Emissions Hoses
  Emissions hoses are ugly, hard to work around and can make troubleshooting a nightmare, but they are the law and can be tweaked to help performance. Also, removing emissions components from vehicles is looked down upon by the emissions testers so check your state laws before doing it.  Emissions controls are not as bad on engine performance as most people think.  Having said that, they usually just require upgrading to higher flowing components to benefit a really souped-up engine.  However, this usually means removing the existing components and redesigning and building a system that will work with the new horsepower and torque ratings of the engine.  There are examples of this technology at your local race track actually being used to the benefit of racing.  Don't believe me, look at the top fuel engines running crankcase evacuation systems. These systems are used to reduce crankcase pressures and extend gasket life as well as performance gains.  The less pressure in the crankcase, the easier it is for the piston to go down the cylinder and thus more power to the wheels.  As for the ugly hoses running everywhere, try using steel braided lines or hose covers with anodized fittings at the ends.  Next, route them neatly using nylon ties and looms, this will make working around them much easier.  The result will be an awesome looking engine, and with all those braided lines you're sure to be accused of sneaking nitrous in there somewhere.  That will make your competition think twice before challenging you. ;-)